Ireland is knee deep in charm. Although this largely rural nation has transformed itself over the past couple of decades into one of Europe's biggest economic successes, it hasn't lost its friendly ways or its links with its traditional culture. The tourist trade may play up the crowd pleasers, from medieval banquets to Riverdance -style step dancers, but if you get away from the well-trodden tourist areas, you'll see that the charm doesn't end. There is still town after town filled with brightly painted buildings and crowded with cheeky kids in school uniforms. In even the most out-of-the-way pub you're likely to find someone playing an accordion or fiddle or simply singing with no accompaniment at all. Most everywhere, the pace of life is relaxed, and people take time for an amiable chat.
We've found, too, that Ireland has a knack for being hospitable to its guests without being overwhelmed by them. The services are there, all right -- every other house seems to be a bed-and-breakfast -- but you seldom get the feeling that tourism has taken over a community and turned it for the worse. The friendly welcome is genuine. There are few pushy vendors or salespeople and little crime aimed at visitors. Even the souvenir shops seem rather low key.
Take your time when traveling around the country. Although it's possible to drive the length of Ireland in less than a day and to traverse the width of the country in a few hours, we prefer to settle in and explore a particular region, whether on foot, on horseback or behind the wheel, mindful of the wandering sheep on small back roads